Sunday, June 30, 2013

Home Sweet Homestay

遅くなってすみません、読者。
Sorry for the delay, readers.

Last week I anxiously awaited an e-mail with information about my short homestay 短期ホームステイapplication. The previous week I had filled out the 申し込み, including a brief self-introduction 自己紹介, current photo, allergies (なし), and favorite Japanese cuisine 日本料理. Basically, I felt as if I were going through the adoption process.

Eager to hear back, my computer finally caved in and granted me my wish. After my last Friday class, I met up with my recently acquainted friend, Rui るい, who served as my guide in commuting to her home near Kamakura 鎌倉. Through our train-ride chatting in Japanese and English, I realized I had found my other half. Also a fellow English literature major, Rui plans on teaching English at the high school level and wants to create an atmosphere similar to that of her high school. In addition to our ambition to teach, Rui and I came across more commonalities: we both ran in high school; we enjoy music by Arashi 嵐 and Taylor Swift テイラー·スウィフト (yes, you read the latter correctly: guilty as charged); we dislike mangoes; and we find Engrish 日本人の英語 often confusing and therefore humorous.

Once we arrived at Rui's home, her mom お母さん opened the door all smiles, warmly greeting me with『あっ、大きい女の人だね』. Her use of the verb 大きい (big) triggered a chuckle from me.  I translated the comment as "Oh, she's a big girl!" I asked Rui's mom if she didn't mean 高い(tall). She explained how 大きい can also refer to one's height: なるほど (I see).

After setting down our things and taking in the beauty of the quite spacious Japanese condominium マンション, Rui led me upstairs to meet her grandma おばあさん and grandpa おじいさん. I don't think I've met an elderly couple as cute as them. Sitting on their tatami mats, they said "hello" in English and then their faces creased with grins as I greeted them in Japanese.

Leaving the precious pair to relax before dinner, Rui and I descended the sleek, wooden stairs to help out in the kitchen. Taking tortilla-thin slices of floured dough, Rui taught me how to prepare Gyoza 餃子, fried dumplings. We filled the dough slices with seasoned pork and spinach, gluing the dumplings shut with water and pressing the sides in a shell-like pattern. We could all discern the dumplings I had made from their torn edges but Rui and her mother assured me, their unskilled pupil, that mine were good 上手.

After frying the dumplings, the five of us gathered around the elegant and modern dinner table, enjoying rice, Miso soup みそ汁, and a tasty spring noodle salad to go along with our Gyoza. Rui's mom presented me with a welcome gift of polished chopsticks, my first pair in Japan, which I used for the feast. As we ate, we watched a Japanese game show on television, which reminded me of my high school days when I first witnessed the Japanese media. Unlike TV shows in America, Japanese programs usually film the commentators' reaction to what they're viewing for audience members' reference.

Dinner finished, we bid "good night" 『おやすみなさい』to Rui's grandparents. Rui, her mom, and I continued to enjoy each other's company as we waited up for Rui's dad. I found out Rui's mom is fluent in German and spent a year abroad in college studying in Deutschland ドイツ. She sells makeup from their home and studies German and English in her free time.


Flipping through old photo albums of Rui growing up, we ate a dessert of Japanese cherries さくらんぼ, which mirrored my favorite kind, Mount Rainier cherries. I also brought some root beer barrels from America for my hosts to try. Their reaction: exchanged looks of surprise and then a fit of giggles. Apparently, my childhood candy tasted spicy and smelled like a Japanese brand of medicineトクホン!
At around 10pm, Mr. Kurosaki, お父さん, arrived. His presence definitely made Rui and her mom come out of their shells even more as they teased him about his English speaking skills, which once again impressed me, as he told stories. I joined in on the fun, feeling at ease in making jokes in my broken 片言 Japanese. For instance, Rui's dad explained his experience of driving over a snake へび and his concern about the consequences because this is the year of the snake (according to the Chinese calendar). As snakes came up in conversation the next day, I alluded back to the story, advising お父さん to be careful about those snakes 『へびを注意した方がいいですよ』 to everyone's amusement.

* * *

Waking up at 6am for our Harajuku 原宿 and Meiji Shrine 明治神社 adventure, I climbed out from beneath my strawberry-themed comforter and followed Rui downstairs for a breakfast of sunny-side-up eggs, greens (salad often accompanies breakfast here), and a slice of honeyed and buttered toast. Exchanging goodbyes 『さようなら』with my favorite seniors, I hopped in the family car and Rui, her parents, and I set off for the day's excursion.

At 9:30am, Rui and I jumped out of the car at Harajuku Station and the two of us began exploring the shops as Rui's mom and dad headed to Sophia University for the annual parents meeting. Although most stores had yet to open before 10:30 or 11am, H&M happened to be an early riser as well. Rui and I perused the sales racks and I snagged two shirts, one for 300 yen ($3) and the other for 700 yen ($7), for a taste of "super Japanese" ちょう日本 fashion.

Our next stop was the Harajuku photo booths プリクラ. Luckily, only a few other early birds had the same idea and we were able to take our time striking fun poses and decorating our photos. In addition to the bold backgrounds and stylish stamps, we added "hipster" accents, putting Rui's recent knowledge about the current American trend to the test.

Suddenly becoming attuned to our growling stomachs, Rui and I stopped at a takoyaki たこ焼き stand, famous for its octopus dumplings. We spotted the newest item on the menu, Takoyaki Tacos, and decided to give them a try. Wrapped in small, soft tortillas, the octopus dumplings were laid in a bed of fresh lettuce, cheese, chili, and hot sauce. To the cook's delight, the Mexican twist on a Japanese favorite was a hit with us as evident from my second taco purchase.

Browsing other shops, Rui and I passed the rest of our time pointing out Engrish words and sayings on merchandise and taking pictures of clothing that had strange prints (i.e. a skirt covered with eggs and another one with Homer Simpsons). We also stopped by a crepe shop to get our sweet-tooth fix and listened to American music blasting from a neighboring store painted with bright, neon colors.

Later in the afternoon, we met up with Rui's parents and ventured to the famous Meiji Shrine nearby. Although I had been to the shrine itself before, they took me to the outer gardens area where we spied the seasonal irises in full bloom, butterflies of every pigment, and ponds with passerby feeding the koi and kame かめ, turtles. The shade of the Meiji trees and thatched huts kept us cool as we made our way to the popular Kiyomasa's well. According to Rebecca Milner's article titled "Wishing Wells," Kato Kiyomasa, a well-known Japanese daimyo of the Edo period, dug the well. Milner explains that apparently a fortune teller told a couple to go to this well for luck and it has become a frequented place ever since. Rui and her parents took pictures of the well with their iPhones, for setting the picture as your backdrop is also supposed to bring luck (Milner).

After being treated to a delicious sugar cone filled with sakura さくら, cherry blossom, flavored soft serve, Rui's family dropped me off close to my apartment, and after several hugs, bows, and thank yous『どうもありがとうございました』, we parted ways.

Though my time with Rui and her family was short, I feel so blessed to have had the opportunity to meet such warm, friendly, and hospitable people who made me feel included and a part of the Kurosaki clan.

Saturday, June 15, 2013

For Disney Dad

父の日、おめでとう
Happy Father's Day

This is the first Father's Day without my Papa physically present. Memories of his passing, a year ago August 14th, still tug at me. I know he is with me in spirit, though, and I've felt him in step with me here in Japan.

My dad supported me fully in fulfilling my dream to study abroad in Tokyo.

I remember last summer's two weeks in New Mexico. We were giving the cancer treatment center a chance and clinging onto a hope that my dad would make it.

I remember Dad saying he wanted to go for a walk down the hall for some exercise. I volunteered to go with him and decided to bring up the question that had been pressing on me.

"Dad, what do you think about me going to Japan?"

He didn't pause in his pace. He didn't hesitate to answer.

He simply replied, "I think if it's what you want to do, then you should do it."

I remember then asking the harder question, the one weighing on my heart.

"But what if something happens while I'm away?"

He slowed. "I don't want that to stop you. You should go on living your life."

It's 10 months later and I'm following my dad's wise words.

I hear his hearty chuckle when I pull one of his tourist cards (i.e. marching into a luxurious, club-membership-only gym with shoes still on and waving my student card thinking I had found the university's gym).

I see his nod of approval when I capture the perfect angle for a photo (i.e. ignoring a security guard's warning in order to add a black tuna to my Tsukiji Tuna Auction album).

I feel his adventurous spirit whenever I step outside of my comfort zone and try something new (i.e. modeling in a serious role for my friend's photo shoot).

Through each experience, I've found him. Or rather he's found me.

It should come as no surprise then that as I set out on my two-day Disney excursion Disney Dad was right there with me...

* * *

Last Saturday morning, my friend from Wisconsin, Melinda, and I set out for Tokyo DisneySea ディズニーシー. Through the JR train windows, we could see the gray expanse of water from Tokyo Bay stretching out into the horizon line as we approached Disney territory.

Hopping onto the monorail, we peered through the Mickey cut-out window and recognized the silhouette of Cinderella's Castle situated in Tokyo Disneylandディズニーランド. As the rail came to a stop, we practically skipped off of it. We had reached our day's destination: DisneySea.

Passing under the 30th Anniversary archway, Melinda and I trailed the Japanese crowd and found ourselves in a painted paradise. The seascape echoed the Italian Riviera with vibrant hues from rustic oranges and yellows to powdered pinks. Gondolas and compact cruises drifted along the main Mediterranean Harbor. One of these cruises carried two classic characters, Mickey and Minnie, and their teddy bears, Duffy and Shellie May. Apparently they tried to introduce these teddy bears in the States to no avail. At least Japan caught on!

After the morning's first performance, Melinda and I mapped out our day, pinpointing "must do" rides and places. After getting our first Fastpass for Journey to the Center of the Earth, we made our way around to the colossal castle and its explorer domes. Suckers for a five-minute-wait sign, Melinda and I stood in line for "The Leonardo Challenge." After reassuring the instructors we understood Japanese, we received a map with hidden treasures and then entered a room where Leonardo da Vinci himself (in holographic form) impressed us with his Japanese speaking skills in laying out our quest.

While we understood the majority of the directions, Melinda and I found the first few items but were unable to successfully scan our map for proof. Forced to improvise, we continued our exploration, stumbling upon the explorer society's hall, an astronomy room, Leonardo's flying machine, and the final quest scanner. Suddenly figuring out how to scan our map, we slipped our paper through only to have Leo call us out on our failure to complete his quest properly. "That's too bad"『ざんねんだね』. Stamping our map with the society seal anyways, Melinda and I flashed our first foreigner 外人 card of the day.

Up next, we boarded a water ride with spiraling whirlpools at Port Discovery's Aquatopia. Then ambling to Mermaid Lagoon, we photographed Ariel's sparkling sea palace glistening in the sun, which was just breaking through the clouds. Journeying underneath the surface, a florescent display of lights, kitty rides, and "Under the Sea" tunes overwhelmed our spectator senses. Selecting a clam shaped pulled pork sandwich with mango sauce, fries, and Kirin (Japanese brand) apple tea soda we enjoyed our lunch at this rest spot down under.

Our Fastpass time arrived soon after lunch. We escaped the sun's rays in the cool underground and commented on the neat, industrial special effects of our first roller coaster of the day. The best drop: from the top of the volcano, Mount Prometheus!

Following Journey to the Center of the Earth, Melinda and I ventured to the Arabian Coast, flying on one of Jasmine's Magic Carpets and joining Sinbad on his Storybook Voyage. The blend of Arab culture and Japanese dialogue and songs made for an amusing, multicultural experience. Next, we strolled down the streets of Agrabah Marketplace and Abu's Bazaar, finally caving in to our curry popcorn craving at one of the several stands spread out throughout the park.

As we continued our snacking with Stitch-themed, Ramune-ラムネ-and-strawberry-jelly-filled popsicles, Melinda and I crossed out another "must do" on our list: 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Entering our Nautilus inspired submarine, we plunged into the depths surrounding Mysterious Island. The best part: the giant squid assailing us at the end!

Once we regained our land legs, Melinda and I wandered back towards the outskirts of Mediterranean Harbor, finding ourselves in the Venetian Carnival Marketplace. "Ciao!" A Japanese gondolier steered his gondola under a replica Venetian bridge and directed his passengers in a chorus of Italian greetings. Eager to ride one ourselves, we found the line and after twenty minutes or so boarded our ornate, Venetian vessel. Gliding through the DisneySea water, we listened to our gondolier point out aspects of the Italian Riviera and then break into song in his deepest, Italian-esque voice in Japanese.


To conclude our day, Melinda and I road Indiana Jones Adventure: Temple of the Crystal Skull; ate the best shrimp curry at the Casbah Food Court; and watched the tail end of the fireworks show with a light up display of Mickey's wizard hat floating in the harbor.

Crawling into bed that night, I felt my body sigh. What a spectacular day spent soaking up DisneySea. My feet ached. My stomach gurgled. My eyes closed knowing that the next day of Tokyo Disneyland awaited with its own adventures. 

I guess you could say I'm my Disney Dad's daughter.

Saturday, June 1, 2013

"I am the mask you wear"

こんばんわ、読者。
Good evening, readers.

As some of you facebook followers may have noticed, last Saturday I took part in a "Dream Masquerade" photo shoot for my friend and professional photographer, Stephen. At 9am, I rubbed the sleep from my eyes, slipped on my roommate's white dress, pinned up my hair, and waited anxiously for my team to arrive. At 10am, I heard the voices of Stephen, his make-up artist, Niki, and photo assistant, Amy, echoing from downstairs. At 10:15am, the transformation process began: the tickle of brushes, the poking on of silver sequins, and the curious glances of my fellow team members.

Before stepping out onto the main street, Shinjuku Dori 新宿通り, I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror. A ghostly face hidden behind a painted mask peered back at me. I wondered about this girl. Her story. Her inner self. Her mask.

Following her out the door and into the outside world, I embarked on an unplanned journey of the foreigner, the 外人, the Other.

She continued to converse with her companions but though her dress felt light, the gazes and expressions of confusion and, even worse, horror weighed her down. The soles of her sandals seemed to disappear; she sank into the street as a woman's scowl struck her like a slap.

I caught the same train as she entered the confined space with more unsettling stares. She smiled. She laughed. But she still felt trapped under their stares.

I heard her subtle sigh as she swept passed the shutting doors. She then inhaled. A breath of freedom. She took comfort in the shadows of the underground where dirt smeared the walls and water trickled from lingering cracks above. She felt safe here. Below the turmoil of Tokyo. Out of reach.

Only the camera drew her out. Out of the darkness that hid her as well as her painted mask.

Out of her element, she faltered at first. She posed without flow. Rigid as a statue made of stone.

Suddenly, she became attuned to the guidance of the artist. Her arms loosened; her face relaxed.

Now immune to the sting of the glaring light, she let her eyes speak. They spoke. They dared the outsider label to crush her. The label retreated. It failed to dig its claws into her and belittle her efforts to make sense of the culture above.

She broke down the label, recreating it piece by piece. I read remembrance in her countenance. I entered her thread of thoughts. Images of her homeland. Condescension; conformity. The sense of shame: finding herself among the rest. The whole. The majority.

Now she knew what the Other felt. The sear of scrutiny. The puncture from persecution.

She apologized to those she wounded.

She forgave herself.

The sucking of the camera capturing her visage brought her back to the present. She donned the otherness mask and tilted her head upward, so that the light caught the sparkle of the sequined studs. She found beauty in her otherness and welcomed it along with the hurried gust from the rush of another passing train.

* * *